Some of the most frequent questions I am asked concern acids - specifically glycolic. As more and more people embrace acids in all their glory, I thought a few facts from industry expert Lorna Bowes would be interesting. Lorna is an RGN with a specialty in dermatology and advises and trains doctors and aestheticians around the globe. There is nothing about acids and peels this woman does not know.

Myth: Glycolic thins the skin.
Fact: Glycolic Acid thickens the skin.
The first study on hydroxy acids was on the modulation of keratinisation with ichthyosis as the model:
'Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ: Control of Keratinization with a-Hydroxy Acids and Related Compounds. Archives of Dermatology 110: 586-590, 1974'.
This led to understanding that glycolic acid exfoliates and normalises the keratinisation process so that the stratum corneum (outer horny layer of your skin) is more flexible and the excess build up associated with the ageing process is reduced. However, in 1996 Dr Ditre, a US Dermatologist, published a paper:
'Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ.
Effects of alpha hydroxy acids on photo-aged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic and ultrastructural study.
J Am Acad Dermatol 1996; 34:187-95'.
This paper demonstrated that an AHA treated site increased skin thickness by 25%, the rete pattern (junction between epidermis and dermis which in short works like velcro) is improved, elastic fibres are improved, and there is an increase in...